Travel Stories

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Monte Carlo to Sanremo

Tennis, the sea and the case for time away.

Some trips are planned around work. This one was planned around tennis.

Every April the Monte-Carlo Masters is played on red clay cut into the hillside above the Mediterranean. I went to watch, and to slow down.

Red clay courts terraced below a stone wall at the Monte-Carlo Country Club, with the sea beyond
A stone terrace and steps down to the sea
The underside of a white apartment building raised above a stone promenade

Monaco is a study in contrasts: the Belle Époque flourish of the casino and its gardens, and the white lines of the new quarter at the water’s edge. Old and new, side by side.

There is a particular pleasure in watching a game you love played at its best. The rhythm of a rally. The hush before a serve. Clay swept smooth, then marked again.

Players and a coach on a practice court below a stone wall, seen through the fence

On the practice courts

A match on a clay court at the Monte-Carlo Country Club, seen over the spectators’ shoulders

Match day at the Country Club

Clay courts seen from under a striped awning

Under the awning, Sanremo

Red clay tennis courts under a broad sky in Sanremo

Red clay, Sanremo

Then along the coast to Sanremo. A quiet club, where the courts were red, the morning was still and there was nowhere else to be.

The hotel was a grand old one: a marble stair, painted ceilings, a terrace of palms.

A good club is about more than its courts. It is the terraces, the rituals, the conversations between matches. A place made for lingering.

A bar under a red glass chandelier
Rooftops and the sea at first light in Sanremo

First light over Sanremo

An ornate white iron balcony with palms and the sea beyond

The balcony, the palms, the sea

–

Time away is part of the work.

Monaco's buildings climbing the hillside, seen from the water

Photography

Kim Lambert

We spend so much of our lives being busy. It is the time given to what we love that sharpens the eye: for proportion, for rhythm, for the pleasure of a thing done well.

The Riviera, between sets.